Spicy Food from the Cradle of Civilization

Ethiopia, located in Northeast Africa at the base of the "horn," is a country more commonly associated with political upheavals and drought, rather than gastronomy. Yet Ethiopian cuisine offers an exceptional and exquisite array of flavorful food that is unique to other African nations as well as to the world.

Ethiopian food is the ultimate in spicy cookery, not only because the food is hot, but also because of the abundance of spices used. It is not for those with weak stomachs!

ETHIOPIA
Background

As with its cuisine, landlocked Ethiopia lies somewhat separate from its Mother Africa. Its main borders with Kenya, Somalia, and Sudan can be easily drawn along an encircling rim of high mountain peaks — some of them reaching over 15,000 feet. Transportation is difficult in this terrain, which is why Ethiopia has maintained its purity — relatively uninfluenced by neighboring countries and their invasions over the centuries.

Since the 1400's, traders have introduced some non-indigenous ingredients that have added to what we now know of as authentic Ethiopian cuisine. From Portugal came chile peppers, and from the Orient — ginger. India played a part in North African trade as well, introducing exotic spices. However, gastronomic influences are not altogether obvious in Ethiopian cuisine because it is so different from all others.

Almost half of Ethiopia's population are Christians, who live in Northern Ethiopia. In the south Muslim factions predominate. Vegetarian dishes are not only a must for the Muslims, but are also popular among Ethiopia's Christian population, who respect nearly 200 fasting days a year (chicken, meat, and dairy products are not allowed).

Most of Ethiopia lies between 7,000 and 10,000 feet in elevation on a high tableland of mountains and plateaus. Ethiopians support themselves primarily through agriculture — although of a subsistence nature. Some cattle and sheep are raised. Although the soil is fertile, farming practices are primitive and some areas remain barren.

Coffee is Ethiopia's main commodity — a commodity Ethiopia claims originated in the highlands of Kaffa in Southwestern Ethiopia.

Ethiopia has been described as the land of bread and honey. Grains including sorghum, millet, teff, and wheat grow well in the temperate climate. And honey, collected by ancient beekeeping techniques, is used in everyday meals. Ethiopian food is the ultimate in "living off of the land."

What to Eat

Although complex in nature, Ethiopian cuisine is simple to prepare. Many of the traditional dishes are stews — one-pot-meals, if you wish. Home cooks can easily prepare the basic dishes of Ethiopia and are highly encouraged to do so. When you begin your culinary exploration, you will treasure what this unique, earthy cuisine reveals.

A necessary element of Ethiopian cooking is called berbere. It is a red paste made up of a multitude of spices and herbs. Berbere must be prepared before venturing into the world of Ethiopian cuisine — or it would be like trying to make chili without chili powder, or stock without bouquet garni. Berbere is an essential ingredient.

Another important ingredient is butter — but butter that has been flavored with onions, garlic, ginger, and spices. When this prepared butter, called niter kebbeh, melts in your pan, it transports you to a land far away. You will wonder how Ethiopia has kept niter kebbeh a secret from the culinary world!

Wat is the traditional Ethiopian dish. Wat means stew. Wat can be prepared with chicken (doro) or beef (sik sik). It can also be vegetarian or even contain fish. It is a rich red stew stained by paprika that is fiery hot. Chicken wat also contains hard boiled eggs which impart the powerful wat color and flavors.

Traditional bread, called injera, is used in place of utensils. Injera is a thin but spongy flatbread as large as a tabletop. It is made from locally grown teff — the smallest grain in existence. Ground teff is mixed with water and allowed to ferment, then cooked as you would pancake batter over flat clay griddles.

Legumes form an integral part of the vegetarian meal. Common legumes include lentils and chick peas. The cooked legumes can be eaten as salads, seasoned with chilies and ginger. Or dried legumes can be ground into flour and used as the base of vegetarian fritters.

Ethiopian drinks are made from local ingredients. Tej is an ancient honey-based wine that often initiates a meal — almost as an aperitif. Talla is a beer made from local grain that often accompanies a snack of nuts or crackers. And, of course, coffee finishes off a traditional meal, sweetened with honey.

Menu Guide

Alecha: Stew, either chicken or beef, but not hot and spicy stew

Berbere: Thick, red paste composed of paprika, salt, ginger, onion, garlic, ginger, cloves, cinnamon, nutmeg, cardamom, allspice, pepper, coriander, and fenugreek blended by water and oil.

Doro Wat: Chicken stew

Fenugreek: Little brown seeds that are ground into tan powder for spice seasoning

Injera: Thin, spongy pancake-like flatbread made from teff flour used to scoop up and wrap food in place of utensils

Niter Kebbeh: Spicy butter made from sauteeing onion, garlic, ginger, cinnamon, turmeric, cardamom, clove, and nutmeg in butter

Shiro Wat: Vegetable stew popular during religious fastings

Sik Sik Wat: Beef stew

Teff: Ancient grain of Ethiopia available in whole-grain form as well as ground (teff flour) in health food stores

Wat: Essentially means stew — typically made from base of berbere paste so it is hot and dense with spices.

RECIPIES

Spice Paste (Berbere)

1 teaspoon ginger
1 teaspoon ground cardamom
1/2 teaspoon ground coriander
1 teaspoon ground fenugreek
1/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg
1/8 teaspoon ground cloves
1/8 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/8 teaspoon ground allspice
2 tablespoons finely chopped onions
1 tablespoon minced garlic
2 tablespoons salt
2 cup paprika
2 tablespoons ground cayenne pepper
1/2 teaspoon ground black pepper
1-1/2 cup water

In a cast-iron skillet, toast the ginger, cardamom, coriander, fenugreek, nutmeg, cloves, cinnamon, and allspice over low heat. Do not burn; this should only take a minute or so. Set aside to cool.

Combine the spices, onions, garlic, 1 tablespoon of the salt, and 3 tablespoons water in a small jar of a blender and blend until smooth.

Combine the paprika, cayenne pepper, black pepper, and the remaining tablespoon of salt in the skillet and toast over low heat for a minute or so. Stir in the water, 1/4 cup at a time. Then stir in the blended mixture. Stirring vigorously, cook over the lowest possible heat for 10-15 minutes.

Transfer the berbere to a jar, packing it in tightly. Let the paste cook to room temperature, then cover with a film of oil. Store in the refrigerator between use.

Chicken Stewed in Red Pepper Paste
(Doro Wat)

1 - 2-1/2 lb. chicken,
   cut into 8 serving pieces
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
2 teaspoons salt
2 onions, finely chopped
1/4 cup niter kebbeh
3 cloves garlic, minced
1 teaspoon finely chopped ginger root
1/4 teaspoon ground fenugreek
1/4 teaspoon ground cardamom
1/8 teaspoon ground nutmeg
1/4 cup berbere
2 tablespoons paprika
1/4 cup dry red wine
3/4 cup water
4 hard-boiled eggs
Freshly ground black pepper

Rinse and dry the chicken pieces. Rub them with lemon juice and salt. Let sit at room temperature for 30 minutes.

In a heavy enamel stewpot, cook the onions over moderate heat for about 5 minutes. Do not let brown or burn. Stir in the niter kebbeh. Then add the garlic and spices. Stir well. Add the berbere and paprika, and saute for 3-4 minutes. Pour in the wine and water and bring to a boil. Cook briskly, uncovered, for about 5 minutes.

Pat the chicken dry and drop it into the simmering sauce, turning the pieces about until coated on all sides. Reduce the heat, cover, and simmer for 15 minutes.

Meanwhile, piece the hard-boiled eggs with the tines of a fork, piercing approximately 1/4" into the egg all over the surface. After the chicken has cooked, add the eggs and turn them gently in the sauce. Cover and cook the doro wat for 15 more minutes. Add pepper to taste.

Spiced Butter
(Niter Kebbeh)

2 lb. unsalted butter, cut into small pieces
1 onion, coarsely chopped
3 tablespoons minced garlic
4 teaspoons finely chopped fresh ginger
2 teaspoons ground turmeric
1/4 teaspoon ground cardamom
1 cinnamon stick (approximately 1" long)
1 whole clove
1/8 teaspoon ground nutmeg

In a large saucepan, melt the butter slowly over medium heat; do not let it brown. Then bring butter to a boil. Stir in the onion, garlic, ginger, turmeric, cardamom, cinnamon, clove, and nutmeg. Reduce the heat and simmer uncovered and undisturbed for 45 minutes. Milk solids on the bottom of the pan should be golden brown, and the butter on top will be transparent.

Slowly pour the clear liquid into a bowl, straining through cheesecloth. It is important that no solids are left in the niter kebbeh.

Transfer the kebbeh into a jar. Cover tightly, and store in the refrigerator.

Eggplant Salad

2 eggplants, peeled, diced
Salt, Pepper
Juice of 1 lemon
1/3 cup olive oil
2 cloves garlic, minced
3 cup cooked black-eyed peas
2 teaspoons sugar

Place the diced eggplant in a bowl. Mix the salt and lemon juice together and pour over the eggplants. Let sit for 30 minutes.

Sprinkle on the oil and toss well. Gently stir in the garlic, beans, and sugar. Season with black pepper.

Beef Stewed in Red Pepper Paste
(Sik Sik Wat)

2 onions, finely chopped
1/3 cups niter kebbeh
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 teaspoon finely chopped ginger root
1/4 teaspoon ground fenugreek
1/8 teaspoon ground cloves
1/8 teaspoon ground allspice
1/8 teaspoon ground nutmeg
1/4 cup paprika
2 tablespoons berbere
2/3 cup dry red wine
1/2 cup water
8 oz. tomato sauce
2 teaspoons salt
3 lb. lean boneless beef, cut into 1" pieces
Black pepper

In a large stewpot, cook the onions over moderate heat for about 5 minutes, or until they are soft and dry. Do not let brown or burn.

Stir in the niter kebbeh. When it heats up, add the garlic, ginger, fenugreek, cloves, allspice, and nutmeg. Stir well. Add the paprika and berbere, and stir for 3 minutes. Add the wine, water, tomato sauce, and salt, and bring the mixture to a boil. Add the beef and turn the pieces around in the sauce to coat. Cover the pot and simmer the beef for about 1 hour over low heat. Season with black pepper.

Chick Pea Fritters
(Yeshimbra Assa)

3 cups chick pea flour
2 teaspoons salt
1 teaspoon white pepper
3/4 - 1 cup water
2 tablespoons minced onion
1 teaspoon minced garlic
Vegetable oil (for frying)

Mix the flour, salt, and pepper in a large bowl. Stir in the 3/4 cup water, onion, and garlic. If dough is too crumbly, add a little more water. Dough should form a compact ball.

On a lightly floured surface roll out dough until it is 1/4" thick. Use cookie cutters to cut out shapes (fish shape is traditional).

Pour oil into a skillet 2-3" deep. Heat oil until it reaches 350 degrees on a deep-frying thermometer. Fry fritters for 3-4 minutes, turning them frequently until they puff slightly and are golden brown on both sides. Transfer to a towel to drain. Then prepare sauce:

2 onions, finely chopped
1/2 cup oil
1/2 cup berbere
3 cloves garlic, minced
1-1/2 cups water
1 teaspoon salt

Cook the onions in a dry skillet over the lowest heat for 5 minutes, or until they are soft and dry. Do not let burn or brown.

Pour in the oil, and when it's hot, stir in the berbere and garlic. Add the water, stir, and cook briskly over moderate heat until the sauce thickens. Season with salt.

Place the fritters in the skillet and coat them with the sauce. Reduce the heat to low, cover the skillet partially, and simmer for 30 minutes.

Lentil Salad
(Yemiser Selatta)

1/2 lb. dried lentils
3 tablespoons red wine vinegar
3 tablespoons olive oil
1 teaspoon salt
Black pepper
3 cloves garlic, minced
2 jalapenos, stemmed, seeded, minced

Rinse the lentils under running water in a sieve. Then drop them into boiling water - enough to cover by 2". Simmer the lentils for 30 minutes. Do not overcook. Drain thoroughly and set aside.

Combine the vinegar, oil, salt, and black pepper in a deep bowl. Mix well. Add the lentils, garlic, and jalapenos, and toss gently. Let sit for at least 30 minutes before serving.

Vegetables with Garlic and Ginger
(Yataklete Kilkil)

6 small red potatoes, scrubbed
3 lg. carrots, scrubbed, cut into pieces
1/2 lb. fresh green beans, cut into 2" lengths
1/4 cup oil
2 onions, coarsely chopped
1 lg. green pepper, finely chopped
2 jalapenos, stemmed, seeded, minced
3 cloves garlic, minced
2 teaspoons finely chopped ginger root
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon white pepper
6 green onions, cut into 2 inch lengths

Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Drop in the potatoes. After 5-6 minutes, add the carrots and green beans and cook for another 5 minutes. Drain in a colander. Set aside.

In a stewpot, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the onions, green pepper, and jalapenos. Saute for about 5 minutes. Do not let brown. Then stir in the garlic, ginger, salt, and pepper. Stir for one minute.

Add the reserved vegetables and toss gently until coated. Sprinkle on the green onions. Cover the pot and cook over low heat for about 10 minutes. Vegetables should be tender-crisp.

Honey Yeast Bread
(Yemarina Yewotet Dabo)

1 pkg. active dry yeast
1/4 cup lukewarm water (110-115 degrees)
1 egg
1/3 cup honey
1 tablespoon ground coriander
1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/4 teaspoon ground cloves
1 teaspoon salt
1 cup lukewarm whole milk
6 tablespoons melted unsalted butter
4-5 cups all-purpose flour

In a small bowl, sprinkle yeast over the warm water. Let stand for 3 minutes, then stir to dissolve. Set the bowl in a warm place for about 5 minutes; mixture should double in volume. If it does not, repeat procedure.

Combine the egg, honey, coriander, cinnamon, cloves, and salt in a deep bowl, mixing until smooth. Add the yeast mixture, milk, and 5 tablespoons of the melted butter. Beat until well blended. Stir in flour 1/2 cup at a time, until becomes too stiff to stir.

On a lightly floured board, knead the dough, adding a small amount of flour when necessary to keep from sticking. Knead for about 5 minutes. Place dough in a large, greased bowl. cover with a damp cloth and let sit in warm place for about 1 1/2 hours.

Grease a cookie sheet with the remaining tablespoon of butter. Punch down the dough and knead it again for a few minutes. Shape the dough into a round, and place it on the greased sheet. Preheat the oven to 325 degrees.

Let the bread rise again while oven is preheating. Bake the bread for 1 hour, or until the top is crusty and light golden brown.